Vancouver to Long Beach
Among the Chinook

As the fur-trade headquarters of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Columbia Department, Fort Vancouver was the political, cultural, and commercial center of the Pacific Coast during the early 1800s, with influence stretching from Alaska to San Francisco, and from the Rocky Mountains to Hawaii. The site is a history lovers’ paradise, with an engaging visitor’s center and a modern-day replica of the fort that can be explored.

The fort site is below Vancouver Barracks, one of the most historic military posts in the United States. Next door is the Pearson Air Museum, which provides exhibits on aviation at Pearson Field, from its start as a military airfield, to being the site of the world’s largest lumber mill, to its current commercial use.

From this site, the Vancouver Land Bridge installation and Fort Vancouver Trail can also be accessed.

Located in the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge, the Cathlapotle Plankhouse is a full-scale replica of structures built by the Chinookan People who made the Columbia River their home for at least 2,300 years. The building is based on more than a decade’s worth of archaeological research at the site, which began in the 1990s where a large village of the Cathlapotle Nation once stood near the Columbia River shore.

Meriwether Lewis and William Clark mention the village in their journals, both when they passed the town on November 5, 1805, and on their return journey on March 29, 1806. According to the explorers’ entries, they traded deerskins with the Cathlapotle in exchange for dogs and other provisions.

If you would like to see inside the plankhouse, find an Cathlapotle Plankouse event at https://ridgefieldfriends.org/plankhouse/. Near the plankhouse, you have access to the Oaks to Wetlands Trail, and an auto tour is a short drive away.

“Julia Butler Hansen Refuge contains over 6,000 acres of pastures, forested tidal swamps, brushy woodlots, marshes and sloughs along the Columbia River in both Washington and Oregon. Diverse habitats that support the endangered Columbian white-tailed deer also benefit a large variety of wintering and migratory birds, Roosevelt elk, river otter, reptiles and amphibians, and nesting bald eagles, great horned owls and osprey.” (https://www.fws.gov/refuge/julia-butler-hansen-columbian-white-tailed-deer)

Refuge highlights include a roadside blind for spotting deer, Center Road Trail, and Tenasillahe Islands Trail. Amenities await in the nearby town of Cathlamet.

The ancient habitation of Skamokawa (meaning ‘smoke on the water’) is a hidden gem for those following the Lewis and Clark Trail. Visit the River Life Interpretive Center to learn of the area’s history. Then have a picnic or camp at Vista Park where you can also walk the river beach. At Skamokawa Resort, rent a kayak and enjoy a guided tour through the same sloughs and islands paddled by the Expedition in 1806.

On Washington State Highway 401—the Lewis and Clark Trail Highway—a welcome rest area provides a great view of the Columbia River and commemorates the ‘dismal nitch’ where the Expedition hunkered down to endure continual storms. The actual ‘nitch’ was likely nearer to Cliff Point where there is an old, walkable road along the creek where Clark gigged several salmon in November 1805. The nearby U.S. Quarantine Station is also worthy of a visit.

Alongside highway 101 and the Columbia River lies Middle Village, the site of a Chinook village where 36 houses once stood. The Washington Chinook used this village to facilitate trade with European ships which were entering the Columbia River.

Lewis and Clark named this site Station Camp and spent ten days here while Clark drew up a detailed and accurate map of the mouth of the Columbia River and surrounding area.

The site has a short loop trail and observation platform with extensive interpretation explaining Middle Village and Station Camp.

The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center is an amazing attraction within Cape Disappointment State Park.

Perched on a cliff 200 feet above the pounding Pacific surf, the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center shares the story of the Corps of Discovery’s journey, focusing particularly on their Pacific Coast stay during the winter of 1805–1806. A series of mural-size timeline panels guide visitors through the westward journey of the Expedition using sketches, paintings, photographs, and the words of the journal writers.

Be sure to include time to walk the trail to the nearby lighthouse, visit the beach, and explore other Lewis and Clark attractions at the State Park.

Lewis and Clark Expedition interpretation, a monument, and a short steep trail await the visitor to McKenzie Head within Cape Disappointment State Park. It is upon this promontory that Clark’s group stood to view the Pacific Ocean:

“. . . men appear much Satisfied with their trip beholding with estonishment the high waves dashing against the rocks & this emence ocian.”
—William Clark

The short climb up the old road to the top is worth the view and there is a bonus: the concrete World War II Battery 247. If you want to explore, bring a flashlight.

You can continue walking in the footsteps of William Clark by hiking the North Head Trail which connects with the North Head Lighthouse about 3 miles away.

In November 1805, William Clark took a group of enlisted men to see the Pacific Ocean. They eventually arrived at “The World’s Longest Beach”. They walked the beach for several miles and Clark carved his initials on a tree near the present town of Long Beach, Washington.

Long Beach has many lodging and dining options—a great place to spend a day or two. Walk the beach or the boardwalk, enjoy the surf by horseback, or visit the famous Marsh’s Free Museum. Long Beach made beach kites popular, so visit the World Kite Museum and then go fly a kite!